In
the aftermath
of Katrina,
when all
the city
of New
Orleans
appears
to be
dead,
who, you
might
ask, would
want to
hang around
this place
now?
It
would
have to
be somebody
familiar
with desolation,
that’s
for sure,
and not
put off
by challenges.
Someone
who brings
the party
with him,
so to
speak;
who knows
just the
prescription
for these
post-Katrina
blues.
No
it ain’t
the Big
Boeuf of
Fat Tuesday!
Too
dread
to be
dead and
too much
of a good
time to
be kept
down,
now’s
the time
to call
on Papa
Gede for
a healing
wild abandon.
Known
as the
Lwa of
the Dead
in Vodoun,
Papa Gede,
or Ghede,
is also
known
as the
Baron
Samdi,
and is
married
to Manman
Brigit,
mother
of all
Gedes.
Together
the Gedes
dress
in funeral
colors
of purple
and black
and surround
themselves
with graveyard
imagery.
The Gedes
are very
wise,
Papa Gede
most of
all, because
they possess
the accumulated
wisdom
of all
the dead.
Papa
Gede usually
appears
wearing
all black,
a top hat,
sunglasses
with one
eye out,
to symbolize
his power
in the world
of the seen
and the
unseen.
He is a
wise counselor
and a shameless
trickster;
he is especially
loving toward
children,
and is called
the patron
of children
throughout
the Vodoun
world.
You
can count
on Gede
to keep
you from
wallowing
in your
sorrows,
and he
usually
arrives
when everyone
is tired,
exhausted
and ready
for sleep.
That’s
when Gede
will want
to hear
another
song,
have another
drink,
and eat
another
meal!
Devotions
to Gede,
who is syncretized
with St.
Gerard,
are carried
out during
the entire
month of
November,
but most
especially
on November
1st (All
Saints Day)
and 2nd
(All Souls
Day).
During
these
devotions,
Papa Gede
will arrive
with the
entire
retinue
of Gedes
in tow.
They eat
and drink
with gluttony,
for, like
Death,
the Gedes
are never
satisfied,
and they
especially
enjoy
hot, peppered
foods
and rum
that has
had Scotch
Bonnet
peppers
soaking
in it.
But
Papa Gede
is not just
gluttony
and cool
clothes.
He is the
powerful
Lwa often
called upon
for healing.
As the Avatar
of Death
it is also
within his
power to
effect healing,
and if ever
there was
a need for
healing,
it is here,
now.
The
beautiful
city of
New Orleans
is broken
but not
beaten,
is bent
but not
destroyed.
Slowly,
it is
beginning
to heal.
She is
like a
grand
old dame
who is
suffering
from a
serious,
life-threatening
illness,
and she
needs
every
healing
effort.
Who better
to call
on now
than Papa
Gede?
He
is able
to help
with grief,
and there
are many
grieving
here and
throughout
the Diaspora
that is
post-Katrina
New Orleans.
Gede will
also lead
the Beloved
Dead across
the black
waters of
the Abyss
where they
can rest,
and their
loved ones
can heal.
Papa
Gede will
give sound
advice
and provide
honest
answers
to the
tough
questions
facing
all of
us in
the aftermath
of Katrina.
Finally,
Papa Gede
is there
to comfort
and protect
young
children,
the littlest
victims,
uprooted
and without
a sense
of what
is to
come.
So,
as death
has plagued
us and
desolation
has surrounded
us, now
comes
a time
to heal
and to
take stock
for the
future,
whatever
that holds.
Who better
to follow
than Papa
Gede who
stands
at the
center
of all
roads?
Through
death
there
is rebirth,
and here
in New
Orleans
that should
start
with a
party
as only
the Baron
can give!
Eat,
drink,
party
until
you drop!
Cry, moan,
mourn,
then pick
yourself
up by
your spats,
put your
top hat
on, and
follow
Papa Gede
into the
unseen
future.
Go
on! At this
point, it
can only
get better!
Offer
Gede red
hot peppers,
pepper-soaked
rum and
hot Creole
foods.
He likes
black
cock feathers,
images
of black
roosters,
bones
and graveyard
stones,
sunglasses
with one
lens,
top hats,
and purple
and black
candles,
ribbons
and satin.
Celebrate
his fete
on the
Day of
the Dead,
November
1st.
Gede',
Ghede
is the
god of
the dead
in voodoo,
but it
is also
the name
of the
group
of deities
who belong
to his
retinue.
He is
a very
wise man
for his
knowledge
is an
accumulation
of the
knowledge
of all
the deceased.
He stands
on the
center
of all
the roads
that lead
to Guinee,
the afterworld.
Ghede
is represented
as an
undertaker,
dressed
completely
in black
wearing
dark glasses.
His followers
disguise
themselves
as corpses
and they
dance
the Banda.
Other
members
of his
retinue
are Baron
la Croix
and Baron
Cemetière.
His feminine
counterpart
is Maman
Brigitte.
Maman
Brigitte
The Haitian
voodoo
goddess
who protects
the graves
in cemeteries
that are
marked
with the
cross.
Her masculine
counterpart
is Ghede
(Baron
Samedi).
Gede
also names
a family
of raucous
spirits
who personify
the ancestral
dead and
sexual
regeneration.
Their
boss is
the Baron
(Bawon
Samdi,
or 'Baron
Saturday'),
married
to Grand
Brigitte,
mother
of the
Gedes.
Family
members
dress
themselves
in black
and purple
costumes
reminiscent
of Masonic
garb,
and surround
themselves
with graveyard
imagery.
They also
favor
sunglasses
because
the world
above
ground
is too
bright.
Gede is
a shameless
trickster,
a wise
counselor,
and a
benevolent
healer
known
to have
special
love for
children.
Devotions
to Gede
are carried
out on
Fridays
and/or
Mondays,
and during
the entire
month
of November,
November
2, All
Soul's
Day, commonly
called
Fet Gede
(pronounced
GAY-day),
is a national
holiday
in Haiti.
Catholics
attend
mass in
the morning
and then
go to
the cemetery,
where
they pray
at family
grave
sites
and make
repairs
to family
tombs.
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